Here in Sheffield fingers are beginning to itch as the grit cools down and rumours of friction abound. Just in time we have a fantastic new film from another climbing-centric city, Squamish, to get you all totally amped wherever you are climbing this autumn. Western Gold joins a disparate group of dedicated and creative climbers getting committed on the highest boulders in North West America. Also this week, the new Fontainebleau movie Out of Sight: all you would expect from the forest – beauty, secrecy, subtlety and then some hard, hard moves. Finally we round up our some of our favourite bouldering movies on SteepEdge. Let the bouldering begin!
Filmmaker Alex Savage takes us on a search for the best highball boulders on the West Coast of North America. Phenomenal cinematography reveals five world-class venues: Red Rocks, Leavenworth, Squamish, Cody, and Castle Rocks. Alex films and interviews local climbers projecting their own lines as well as some rarely ascended classics, and gains a unique insight into each area, meeting some great boulderers along the way. Kyle O’Meara, Pete Lowe and Flannery Shay-Nemirow all send in earnest and we get an honest view of Savage’s own experience on Green In The Face (V13), a very high boulder that he attempts alone.
Western Gold is a great independent project and Savage is a consistent and dedicated filmmaker. This exploratory and detailed film will make you completely psyched for the North West Coast. Book your plane tickets.
Fontainebleau is one of the most popular climbing destinations on the planet, with thousands of boulders spread over hundreds of areas, and grades for every climber of every age and of every style. Unfortunately this means heavy traffic. Neil Hart has kindly, and quite beautifully, documented a tour of the so far un-plundered treasure, and is a strong advocate of respect for the forest.
From the classic areas of Franchard and Cuvier to the lesser-known areas of Buthiers and JA Martin, follow a group of the world’s best climbers as they explore some of the hidden boulders. The ‘Out of Sight’ secrets of the forest are waiting to be sent!
‘The rocks are incredible, the shapes are incredible and it just keeps on going like that no matter how far you walk.’
It’s on its way! Deliberations and discussions on temps and conditions are never far from a climber’s mind, and as the excuses fade with summer the pressure rises …
The Real Thing is one of the most classic bouldering films of all time. First released on VHS back in 1996, The Real Thing was the first feature-length bouldering movie ever made and played a large part in the popularisation of bouldering itself.
Britain’s top rock climbers Jerry Moffatt and Ben Moon take you on a roller-coaster road trip from the gritstone crags of the UK’s Peak District to the Mecca of world bouldering, Fontainebleau in France. With guest appearances from German rock legend Kurt Albert, Britain’s Sean Myles and French master Marc Le Menestrel, this really is The Real Thing! Seventeen years on it still remains a must see. Oh, and the soundtrack is just mint.
Jen Randall and Mina Leslie-Wujastyk have joined forces again this summer to film ‘Project Mina’, so in anticipation we had to include their last feature in our round up this week. In Push it Mina casually crushes some very hard problems in the Swiss Magic Wood, and gives us an insight into the mentality that has allowed her some phenomenal success this year, including the first female ascent of Careless Torque and no less than eight 8As and an 8A+ on her trip to the Rocklands, subject of the new movie to be launched on SteepEdge in 2014.
You can see a preview of ‘Project Mina’, and hear from the woman herself at the Women’s Climbing Symposium, on the 2nd of November, at the Arch Climbing Wall in London. In addition to a day of workshops and lectures aimed to beast and inspire, all attendant will receive a free climbing goody bag, with a SteepEdge treat included. You can book tickets and see the full lineup on the WCS website.